Design of welding mask an issue for jury

Whether a welding mask was designed so that it channeled hot slag to a wearer’s ear was an issue for a jury to decide, an Illinois court has ruled.
On Jan. 31, 1988, George Jarke, a mechanic for a tool and die manufacturer, was removing a metal plate called a “keeper” from a furnace car. The keeper was welded to the wheelbase of the furnace car, and in order to remove it, Jarke used an arc welder to melt the old weld head.
While he was cutting the keeper off the car, hot sparks and bits of molten metal flew. Jarke was wearing a welding mask manufactured by Jackson Welding helmets. Nevertheless, one particle of hot slag rolled down the mask and fell into Jarke’s ear, perforating his eardrum. Despite skin grafts and surgery, Jarke still suffers from a hearing loss.
The only point from which he could cut the plate was beneath the car, a position that gave him very little headroom. In order to fit under the car, Jarke was forced to turn his head at an angle away from the spot he was welding.

Jackson welding helmets
Jarke sued Jackson Products, claiming that the welding mask was unreasonably dangerous because it offered no protection to his ears. He also alleged that the design of the mask was dangerous, because the design channeled molten metal along the rim and to the wearer’s ears, thus increasing the likelihood of injury.
Jackson asked the Illinois trial court to grant judgment for it before trial, asserting that the fact the mask offered no protection to the wearer’s ears was an “open and obvious” property of the mask, and something the manufacturer had no duty to warn against.
When the court did rule for Jackson, Jarke appealed to the Illinois Appellate Court. That court agreed that the manufacturer had no duty to warn Jarke that the mask gave no protection to his ears.
However, the court ruled that Jarke was entitled to a retrial of his claim that the design of the mask was dangerous because the outer ridge of the mask created a channel that funneled slag to his ear when his head was turned to the side, as it was when he welded the keeper.
The court stated: “While it would be eminently foreseeable to the normal consumer that [Jarke's] welding mask would not protect his or her ear, we cannot agree that as a matter of law, the average individual would immediately comprehend that when used as it was here, the mask’s design would actually better enable the welding slag to fall into the ear.”

Welding equipment
Who says the Maxx family of shielding gases from Air Products work? Independent testing labs, such as TWI, fab shops, and the firm’s welding specialists. To simplify the number of gases needed for GMAW and GTAW, the firm developed three Ferromaxx mixtures for carbon and alloy steels, three Inomaxx mixtures for stainless steels, and Alumaxx for aluminum and alloys. Each gas mixture design gives low ozone exposure levels. The gas mixture for each metal increases weld speeds: 19 percent on carbon steel compared with conventional shielding gas mixtures; 35 percent on aluminum compared to argon. Circle 205 Engine driven power sources dominated a section of the Lincoln Electric booth. For the discriminating engine buyer the firm offers engine models from 9 manufacturers: Cummins, Deutz, Briggs & Stratton, Honda, Onan, Kohler, Kubota, Perkins, and General Motors.

General Motor

The engines power welding and generator units, such as the Commander 500, Power Arc 4000, Ranger 8, Ranger 250, and Pipeliner 200G. Look for the color-coded machines: red for 3,600 RPM engines; gray for 1,800 RPM engines. Circle 206

10 Inches Portable table saws reviews Part 3

Delta 36-540

Delta 36-540 table saw

If you want a table saw that’s easy to haul around and you don’t need 4 x 8-panel capacity, this Delta deserves a closer look. Its table size and rip capacity are the smallest in our group, but the tool is also one of the lightest and it’s below average in noise level. The miter gauge slides in a T slot and has stops for 0 [degrees] and 45 [degrees], and the guard assembly is easily secured with a single wingnut. Underneath, the motor support is a simple, bent steel bracket, and the blade plate is secured with sheetmetal screws. We can’t tell you how this tool will hold up over time–it doesn’t have the details, finish and accuracy that spending several hundred more dollars would provide, but this 40-pound saw does a lot of work for $130.  More information for best portable table saw.

Skil 3400

Skil 3400 table saw

Although there are differences, Skil’s entry is very similar to the Delta 36-540. Under the hood, things look like they’ve come from the same parts bin and the blade-guard assemblies are nearly identical. Skil offers a slightly bigger table but a smaller miter gauge. The gauge has no stops at 0 [degrees] and 45 [degrees] and there is no T slot in the table. While Delta has a rip scale that measures to the right and left of the blade, Skil’s measures only to the right. But, the Skil is double insulated and has storage for the miter gauge, fence and blade–Delta’s power arrives through a three-prong plug and the base stores only the miter gauge.

Craftsman 21825

Craftsman 21825 table saw

The Craftsman saw is aimed at budget-conscious woodworkers who need 24-in. ripping capacity. However, instead of a single fence that moves on extending rails, the Craftsman has two independent fences–a conventional one that slides along the table, and a combination fence/support that extends from the right side of the table for wide rips. When the regular fence is in use, the extending fence must be set flush with the table or removed. For wide rips, the extending fence is repositioned and the original fence is removed. The dual fence system has no advantage over the other designs that we could see.

This saw has a handwheel for setting blade angle that takes a time-consuming 64 turns to move from 0 [degrees] to 45 [degrees]. And, blade angle is locked by a hard-to-reach knob nestled behind the height-adjustment wheel.

On the plus side, the saw comes with a stand and a dado-blade insert. The miter gauge slides in a T slot similar in design to the Hitachi tool. The gauge has no stops, but features detents for setting 0 [degrees] and 45 [degrees].

Decisions

To choose the best saw for your needs, first figure out whether you need the 24-in. capacity of an extendible table. The top four tools in this category–Bosch, DeWalt, Ridgid and Porter-Cable–are all about the same price, but the Bosch has the edge in terms of features, detailing and portability. The Ridgid saw is comparable, although noisier and heavier. If you’re interested in a saw with a simple design and very accurate fence, DeWalt’s innovative DW744 looks like a great choice.

In the nonextending group, Makita gets the nod for no-frills portability. However, for about the same price, you can sacrifice size and weight for increased table area and a better fence with Hitachi’s sturdy C10RA2.

Of course, the Delta is the overall value winner, and both it and the Skil seem like good choices for job-site carpenters on a budget. But, if you have a lot of plywood to cut and don’t mind fussing with a barely adequate extending fence system, the Craftsman has the capacity at a down-to-earth price.

Taking A Stand

All of the manufacturers insist that portable saws be firmly attached to stands. It just makes good sense–both in terms of safety and convenience–to get them off the floor and keep them stable.

The traditional steel stand with four legs is the most common, but its bolt-together construction makes it less appealing when it comes to portability. Delta, Bosch, Makita, Ridgid and Skil all offer a similar stand as an accessory. Hitachi and Craftsman supply the stand with their saws.

A few makers are approaching stand design with more creativity. DeWalt offers a folding model that provides good support, requires no assembly and is easy to carry around. Bosch and Porter-Cable offer similar designs.

For the ultimate in portability, the folks at Ridgid offer what they call the Work-N-Haul It–a two-wheel stand to which a table saw, miter saw or other benchtop tool can be bolted. Once the tool is in place, the stand can be collapsed to create a compact assembly that’s easy to roll around, move up and down steps, and store in your truck.

Portable table saws reviews Part 2

DeWalt DW744

Most saws use a T square-style fence that registers off the front rail and clamps across the tabletop. It works well when the front rail is stable and straight, the fence seats against it properly and the clamping action doesn’t pull things out of position. DeWalt has bypassed these concerns with a fence that doesn’t slide on rails. Instead, the front and rear rails move from side to side, carrying the fence with them. Under the rails are rack-and-pinion linkages controlled by a knob at the front of the tool. The synchronized travel of both rails ensures accurate fence positioning anywhere on the table. The fence has a clever flip-away support ledge to handle wide rips.

DeWalt DW744 table saw

DeWalt’s blade guard is secured with two bolts, and the splitter is installed with shims so it can be adjusted for different blades. The shims make reinstalling the guard more annoying than it should be, but we did like the height-adjustable blade insert and its simple twist latch that keeps it in place. As with the Bosch, you adjust the bevel by releasing a lever that allows the motor to swing free, and cam-type stops set maximum and minimum blade angles.

Ridgid TS2400

Ridgid’s entry features an extending table with a substantial aluminum front rail and a hefty fence that slides smoothly on plastic bearings. The front rail has a unique scale that stays in position relative to the blade as the rails are extended, making the scale effective regardless of extension-table location. Both the table and bevel angle are secured with easy-to-use levers, and the bevel is adjusted by means of a ring around the height-adjustment wheel. For fast positioning, the ring can be pulled out to let the motor swing free. Combine these features with an impressive blade elevation rate, and you have a saw that adjusts quickly and easily.

Ridgid TS2400 table saw

The Ridgid guard assembly doesn’t move with blade height adjustments, but is simple to remove and reinstall. The blade plate can be leveled and is secured with a single screw, and a flexible 10-ft, power cord wraps around a spool on the base. There’s also a plastic table insert for marking kerf location.

On the downside, the extending table on our tool wasn’t quite flush with the main table. Also, the fence lever invites pinched skin for the unwary thumb when the lever is unlocked. While the base is designed to store the fence, miter gauge, guard and spare blades, we found the fence bracket clips too stiff to be practical.

Porter-Cable 3812

The P-C has an extending rail system that allows the fence to be positioned more than 24 in. from the blade. The fence has a stock-support ledge for use away from the table, but it’s removable–and easily lost–unlike the flip-away type on the DeWalt.

Porter-Cable 3812 table saw

There’s a blade-tilt ring around the height-adjustment handwheel, similar to that on the Ridgid and Makita. As with the Bosch, the bevel scale ranges from -2 [degrees] to 47 [degrees]. This unit comes with a full-size miter gauge that runs in a T slot just like a big shop saw.

The neatest thing about this saw is the way the blade-guard assembly is secured. It’s not held in place by screws or bolts, it simply slides through a slot behind the blade and is held by a spring-loaded catch. Pushing a blade wrench through a slot in the back of the base releases the assembly. Unfortunately, the splitter doesn’t move with blade height adjustments, and the guard can’t be swung up and out of the way as it can on most other tools. However, because it’s so easy to install, this is one safety device that’s likely to be used.

Makita 2703

At about 20 to 30 pounds lighter and at least $100 cheaper than an extending saw, the Makita is a solid choice for those without a lot of plywood to rip down the middle. With the blade set at 90 [degrees], the Makita can handle stock nearly 1/2 in. thicker than its nearest rival. Blade angle is adjusted with a ring around the height-adjustment wheel, and the angle is locked with a sensible lever behind the wheel.

The saw comes with an overly elaborate three-piece guard that’s more annoying than most. While the splitter moves with blade height, the blade-to-splitter distance must be reset each time the assembly is reinstalled. Two bolts hold the guard in place.

We were unable to adjust the rip scale to match the actual distance between the blade and fence. We also found that the most reliable way to clamp the fence accurately was to use the ribbed tabletop as a visual alignment guide. Makita’s miter gauge is on the small side and lacks stops for 90 [degrees] and 45 [degrees] cuts.

Hitachi C10RA2

With its group-leading 670 sq. in. of table area, the C10RA2 is one of the bulkier saws we tested. Its table is a good 4 in. wider than the biggest extending model, yet its rip capacity is about 8 in. less.

The guard assembly features an unusually long splitter that makes alignment much more critical–and it doesn’t adjust with blade height, making it less effective when the blade is set low.

The Hitachi fence rides on two aluminum rails and it’s the most substantial system of all the non-extending saws. It is the only tool here with a metal base. Like on the Makita, the miter gauge is small and doesn’t have stops. But, it rides in a T slot of sorts that keeps it in place on wide crosscuts. The height-adjustment wheel doubles for bevel adjustment. Height adjustment is very slow–about 14.5 cranks are needed to raise the blade 1 in.

Benchtop Bonanza Portable table saw reviews

We test nine portable table saws.

Hand saw

* Somewhere around 200 years ago–give or take a few depending on who’s doing the counting–woodworking stepped into the future. Instead of sawing with a straight row of teeth that moved back and forth, teeth now spun around in a circle. Cutting was continuous and, by the day’s standards, blazingly fast. The table saw was born.

Of course, the original stationary circular saws were a bit on the bulky side compared to the heftiest home-shop machines on the market these days. In fact, today you’ll find table saws sold through mail-order catalogs, home centers and department stores that will cut just about anything your lumber dealer can dish out. And, for the homeowner who needs a capable tool that fits the budget, or the pro with a job-site schedule to meet, there’s one table saw model that stands out–the benchtop table saw.

While benchtop saws are designed their compact size hides surprising capacity. Most makers offer benchtop machines with 10-in.-dia. blades–comparable to full-size cabinet saws. It’s this capacity, combined with portability and that makes the tool category interesting–and that’s why we assembled nine of the leading models for a test.

Saw Features

Our test tools range from about 35 to 75 pounds. For the most part, material choices keep the tools light. Tabletops and motor-support brackets (trunnions) are generally cast aluminum, with bent steel supports in some of the lower-priced models. Saw bases are mostly plastic.

In addition to being lightweight, these benchtop saws are compact. The average table dimensions are about 19 in. deep x 27 in. wide, while popular contractor saws start at about 22 x 38 in. To increase tabletop real estate without sacrificing portability, the Bosch and Ridgid tools feature extending tables–a roughly 6-in. section on the right side slides away from the blade to bring the table width to about 40 in. This provides extra support for crosscutting, but, more importantly, increases ripping capacity to just over 24 in.–the center of a full plywood sheet. DeWalt and Porter-Cable achieve the same capacity with extending fence rails, and Craftsman has a second fence-and-rail system strictly for wide work.

These portable saws feature direct-drive, universal motors–similar to the motors on portable circular saws–and blade height is set by a handwheel at the front of the base. Craftsman, Hitachi, Makita, P-C and Ridgid have geared adjustment systems for setting blade angle, whereas the remaining makers simply allow the motor to swing free once a locking lever is loosened. In terms of cutting power, these saws are about the same when equipped with identical blades. All saws except Delta, Skil and Craftsman have dust ports.

Blade saw

Blade-guard assemblies–including a clear plastic guard, splitter to keep stock from pinching the back of the blade, and anti-kickback pawls–are standard on these machines and should be used. For some cuts, however, like dadoing or ripping thin strips, the assembly is in the way. With this in mind, the more sensible designs allow not only easy removal, but encourage reinstallation by simplifying the process. While all guard/splitter assemblies are linked to blade angle, only the Bosch, DeWalt and Makita splitters move with blade height adjustments. The fixed splitters of the other saws become less effective as the blades are lowered because the space between the splitter and blade increases.

Bosch 4000 table saw

Bosch 4000 table saw

In terms of fit and finish, great features, solid feel and simple good looks, the Bosch is a winner. While other motors fire up with an earsplitting surge, the 4000′s soft-start feature gently brings the blade up to speed. An arbor lock–the only one in the group–makes blade changing a snap, and the blade insert is easy to level and remove.

This extending-table saw features an inch scale on the front rail that indicates fence location while the table is closed, and an additional scale that handles fence-to-blade distance as the table is moved away from the blade. The bevel scale ranges from -2 [degrees] to 47 [degrees], but you need to reset the bevel stops to access this extended range. The guard/splitter assembly is secured with a single Allen screw, and alignment is independent so you can remove and install the assembly without any fuss. Both the Allen wrench and blade wrench fit in a blade case on the base and there’s storage for the miter gauge, rip fence and 10-ft.kinkfree power cord. The table has a plastic insert in front of the blade for marking the kerf location.

10-in. PORTABLE TABLE SAW SPECIFICATIONS

MANUFACTURER   MODEL   PRICE(1)   AMPS   RPM   WEIGHT   (lb.)

 

Bosch         4000     $539       15     3500   60

DeWalt         DW744   $459       13     3650   64

Ridgid         TS2400   $497       15     4000   75

Porter-Cable   3812     $476       15     4000   60

Makita       2703     $350       15     4600   40

Hitachi       C10RA2   $365(5)   15     5000   56

Delta         36-540   $130       13     4800   40

Skil           3400     $199       13     4800   35

Craftsman     21825   $250(5)   15     5000   45

 

MAX. CUT       MAX. CUT

MANUFACTURER   TABLESIZE             DEPTH AT       DEPTH AT

(depth x width)       90 [degrees]   45 [degrees]

 

Bosch         21 1/2 x 29 in.       3 1/8 in.     2 1/2 in.

DeWalt         19 3/8 x 26 5/8 in.   3 3/16 in.     2 3/16 in.

Ridgid         21 x 30 1/4 in.       3 1/8 in.     2 1/8 in.

Porter-Cable   20 x 25 1/4 in.       3 1/8 in.     2 1/8 in.

Makita         21 x 27 in.           3 5/8 in.     2 9/16 in.

Hitachi       19 5/8 x 34 1/8 in.   3 in.         2 3/8 in.

Delta         16 x 26 in.           3 in.         2 5/8 in.

Skil           17 1/2 x 26 3/4 in.   3 in.         2 9/16 in.

Craftsman     17 3/4 x 26 in.       3 in.         2 1/2 in.

 

MAX. RIP    MAX. RIP     BLADE

MANUFACTURER   RIGHT         LEFT         ELEVATION   NOISE

SIDE(2)       SIDE(2)       RATE(3)     (dBA)

 

Bosch         24 7/16 in.   10 1/4 in.       7.3     89

DeWalt         24 7/8 in.   16 in.           8       92

Ridgid         25 1/4 in.   12 1/4 in.     5       93.5

Porter-Cable   24 1/2 in.   12 1/8 in.       7       91

Makita         12 1/4 in.   12 1/2 in.       6.3     93

Hitachi       14 3/4 in.   16 in.         14.5     90

Delta         11 3/8 in.   12 1/4 in.       8.3     90

Skil           12 in.       12 1/2 in.       8.3     91

Craftsman     24 in.       12 1/2 in.       8       91

 

MANUFACTURER   DOUBLE         ELECTRIC

INSULATION(4)   BRAKE

 

Bosch         yes             no

DeWalt         yes             no

Ridgid         no             no

Porter-Cable   yes             yes

Makita         yes             yes

Hitachi       no             yes

Delta         no             no

Skil           yes             no

Craftsman     no             no

 

Note: All saws have left-tilting blades.

(1.) Estimated street price.

(2.) Farthest distance from blade that fence may be clamped.

(3.) Handwheel rotations per 1 in. of blade elevation.

(4.) Saws not double insulated have three-prong plugs.

(5.) Price includes stand.

Take a Wood Chair Tips

DEFINING SCREW HOLES

Woodworking involves a lot of screw hole drilling. Sometimes you’ll need to drill as many as three different holes for each screw you use! Here are the differences between the types of screw holes.

COUNTERBORE HOLE

This hole is larger thanthe head of the screw, so the head is recessed below the wood surface. Drill a counterbore hole when you want to canceal the screwhead with a wood plug.

COUNTERSINK HOLE

This is a shallow hole with tapered sides. It’s used to “set” the top of a flat head screw so it’s flush with the wood. You can drill countersink holes wiht twist-type drill bits, but countesinking bits are better.

CLEARANCE HOLE

A clearance hole is the same diameter as the screw at the screw threads and is used when joining two pieces of wood. Drill the clearance hole through the first piece of wood only. the hole allows the screw to pull the wood pieces together, creating a tight joint.

PILOT HOLE

A pilot hole makes it easier to drive a screw, and reduces the chance of breaking it, damaging its head, or splitting the wood. As a rule of thumb for No. 6 and fatter screws, drill the pilot holes 1/16 in. smallert than the diameter of the screw smaller than No. 6, use a bit that’s 1/32 in. narrower.

RELATED ARTICLE: SPECIAL BITS FOR DRILLING HOLES

wood chair

1. SEPARATE COUNTERSINK BIT AND TWIST-TYPE DRILL. BIT These are the tools I use most often to drill my countersink and clearance holes. The systems is almost infinitely variable, allowing you to drill the right size countersink and the right size clearance holes for any screw you use. Use these tools before you assemble your wood parts.

Here’s how to drill the screw holes for the chair, footrest and table out and mark the screw hole locations. Drill the countersink holes first. Then drill the screw clearance holes with a twist-type bit using the countersink holes as guides to center the drill bit. Next, glue and clamp the wood pieces together, drill pilot holes where needed, and drive the screws. 2. ADJUSTABLE COMBINATION COUNTERSINK, CLEARANCE, PILOT BIT This bit is used to drill screw holes after you’ve glued and clamped your wood pieces together. It has an adjustable depth stop for the countersink, as well as a depth adjustments for the drill bit. The drill bit is tapered so it drills holes that are perfect for inserting traditional tapered-shank wood screws. Different sizes are available. 3. COMBINATION COUNTERSINK AND PILOT BIT This combination bit is also intended to be used after you’ve assembled your wood parts, or if they are clamped together. This one’s inexpensive, and has only a depth adjustments for the drill bit. Although the middle of it looks like a clearance cutting bit, it’s meant to drill a more suitable pilot hole for the tapered shaft of a wood screw. Different sizes are available for different size screws. 4. ADJUSTABLE COMBINATION COUNTERSINK AND PILOT BIT This bit drills screw holes for drywall screws, which don’t have tapered shafts. The drill bit is a regular twist bit, so it allows for an adjustable pilot hole depth. It can be used when you assemble you wood parts if you use a larger drill to drill a clearance hole. Otherwise, the parts should be clamped together before drilling.

SHOPPING LIST ITEM QUANTITY 1×8 x 8′ poplar 2 pieces 1×6 x 8′ poplar 2 pieces 1-5/8″ galvanized deck screws 20 1-1/4″ galvanized deck screws 68 1″ brads 4 exterior oil primer 1 quart(*) white polyurethane oil gloss

enamel 1 quart(*) weatherproof glue 1 pint (*) Enough paint to finish chair, footrest and table

CUTTING LIST:

FOOTREST KEY PCS. SIZE & DESCRIPTION A 2 3/4″ x 4-3/4″ x 25″ poplar (back legs) B 1 3/4″ x 3-1/2″ x 23″ poplar (front seat support) C 2 3/4″ x 3-1/2″ x 14-1/4″ poplar

(front legs) D 7 3/4″ x 2-1/2″ x 21-1/2″ poplar

(slats)

CUTTING LIST:

TABLE KEY PCS. SIZE & DESCRIPTION E 3 3/4″ x 5-1/2″ x 21″ poplar (top slats) F 4 3/4″ x 3-1/2″ x 21″ poplar (legs) G 2 3/4″ x 3-1/2″ x 14″ poplar (front and back aprons) H 2 3/4″ x 3-1/2″ x 12-1/2″  poplar

(side aprons) J 4 3/4″ x 2-1/2″ x 9″ poplar (leg supports)

Find more tips for home improvement at here.

Adrindock table and footrest

This Adrindock table and footrest complement the chair we featured in June. The table is the same height as the arms of the chair, making it a perfect place to set a snack or a good book. The footrest is angled to support your legs and really absorbs the fatigue from a busy day. Both pieces are easy to build using basic tools.

TOOLS YOU’LL NEED

You’ll need a table saw, jigsaw, electric drill, a countersick and bits, a bar clamp and a hammer and a nail set.

In the step-by-step instructions we’ll tell you how to countersink and drill the screw holes. If you browse tool catalogs, you’ll see many different tools available to drill these holes. For more information on the types of holes and the tools used to drill them, see “Defining Screw Holes,” p. 86, and “Special Bits for Drilling Holes,” p. 88.

ADIRONDACK FOOTREST STEP-BY-STEP INSTRUCTIONS


1. Cut all the pieces (A through D) to the dimensions given in the Cutting List on p. 89. Cut them in the order they appear. This will minimize waste and guarantee you won’t be short of lumber. 2. Lay out the shapes of the back legs (A) as shown in Fig. A. Cut out the shapes using a jigsaw, and then sand the sawn edges smooth. 3. Lay out and cut out the notches in the front legs (C) where the front seat support (B) will go. 4. Lay out the countersink locations and drill all the screw holes. See “Special Bits for Drilling Holes” for more details. 5. Finish-sand the exposed surfaces of all the pieces with 120-grit sandpaper. 6. Glue, clamp and screw the front seat support into the notches cut in the front legs (Photo 1). 7. Glue, clamp and screw the back legs to the insides of front legs (Photo 2). 8. Attach the slats (D) next. Start by cutting a 3/4-in. x 3-in. x 20-in. spacer from scrap wood. Clamp it between the back legs, near the back ends. This will keep the back legs spaced properly as you attach the slats. Glue, clamp and screw the slats in place. Do the slat above the front seat support first, then align and attach the rest (Photo 3). 9. Sand all the sharp edges smooth with 120-grit sandpaper. Build the table next, then paint the chair, footrest and table at the same time.

ADIRONDACK TABLE STEP-BY-STEP INSTRUCTIONS

Adrindock table

1. Cut all the pieces (E through J) to the dimensions given in the Cutting List on p. 89. 2. Transfer and enlarge the grid and shape of the leg supports J (Fig. A) to one of your leg support pieces. Cut out the shape and sand the sawn edges smooth. 3. Lay out and cut the notches in the legs (F) for the front and back aprons (G). 4. Lay out, countersink and dill all the screw holes. 5. Finish-sand the exposed surfaces of all the pieces with 120-grit sandpaper. 6. Glue, clamp and screw the front and back aprons into the notches cut in the legs. Make sure the countersunk holes in the legs are on the side that faces outward. 7. Glue, clamp and screw the side aprons (H) to the insides of the legs (Photo 4). 8. Glue, clamp and screw the leg supports to the insides of the legs. Insert the brads that join the leg supports and front and back apron (Photo 5), then set the nails with a nail set. 9. Sand the sharp edges on the table base with 120-grit sandpaper. 10. Align, glue and screw the center top slat (E) to the tops of the side aprons (Photo 6). 11. Align, glue and screw the outer top slats (E) to the top of the table base. Make sure you leave 1/4-in. gaps between them and the center top slat. 12. Lay out and mark the two pivot points (Fig. A) for drawing the 11-in. radiused ends of table top. Use a compass or string to draw the curves for the ends of the table. 13. Cut the curved shapes of the top slats and sand the sawn edges smooth (Photo 8) as well as the sharp edges of the top slats. 14. Apply the primer and then the paint (see “Painting Tips” in “Woodworks,” June ’95, p. 85). Let the paint dry for about one week so it hardens completely. Tip: If you’ll be setting this furniture on a painted porch floor, glue some felt pads on the bottom of the legs. Now grab an iced tea, sit back, put your feet up and relax!